Idyllic Island Interludes
Sydney Morning Herald
Thursday March 14, 1991
THE restorative powers of Queensland's tropical islands were being written about as early as 1897 when the English-born journalist Edmund James Banfield went to live on Dunk Island in search of a new lifestyle. Suffering from nervous exhaustion, Banfield recovered his health and was to stay on Dunk for 25 years until his death in 1923.
Banfield always claimed that Dunk Island, part of the Family group of islands situated midway between Townsville and Cairns, had the healthiest climate in the world ... "Under this equal sky, the air is warm and soothing; seldom it is crisp, and never really bracing; and though during the wet season the moisture laden air may be likened to a vapour bath, the climate is so wholesome that ordinary precautions for the prevention of sickness are generally neglected."
So it was with these words in mind from Banfield's famous novel, The Confessions of a Beachcomber, that I stepped off the plane on Dunk ready to have the stresses of city life soothed away. I was further tantalised by a rush of nostalgia, brought on by idealised memories of my time in the Deep North when I attended James Cook University in Townsville .. . of trips to Magnetic Island, of joyful escapes to the cooler rainforest climes of Mount Spec and of excursions to Mission Beach, located opposite Dunk.
And the aromas and emotions stored in my subconscious were instantaneously evoked. The earthy lantana smells of the rainforest, the pungent, seaweed odours of the seaspray and the languidness that overtakes the body when it meets the heavy, humid air.
Dunk's resort, overlooking Brammo Bay and Purtaboi Island which teems with birdlife, is virtually surrounded by rainforest. There is a choice of accommodation, either beachfront cabanas surrounded by lush gardens or the Banfield units which have beach or garden views. The Beachcomber Restaurant, the Rainforest Brasserie and the main bar and lounge are the focus of social activity. And if you don't normally drink milk, do while you're on Dunk. Milk and cream are supplied daily by the resort's dairy herd.
Once dug in on the beach under cooling palm trees or plopped in a comfy deck chair by the pool, the temptation never to move is quite overwhelming. But don't miss a trek into the rainforest, particularly to the Swinging Bridge, strung high in the lush canopy, where you'll be treated to an enthusiastic operatic performance by the birdlife and the whimsical dance of the Ulysses butterfly, whose vivid blue colour takes the breath away. No man-made daub could ever match its irridescent brilliance.
For the more active, there's an array of things to do which are all inclusive - catamaran sailing, sailboarding, surf skiing, golf, tennis, archery, beach volleyball, touch football, cricket and so on.
Then, for a reasonable cost, there are the more specialised activities of para-sailing, horseback riding, clay target shooting and scuba diving. The nightlife is equally extensive.
Definitely a must is the 45-minute trip by Quick Cat to Beaver Quay, a small island located on the outer part of the Great Barrier Reef. Here lies the ecology of the reef for all to see. Don a snorkel and a canvas, even brighter than those painted by Ken Done, spreads below you. Vibrantly coloured fish, darting in and out of the coral, swarm everywhere. Its beauty will linger long in your mind.
Because I was so close, I couldn't resist a brief stay on Bedarra Island, which is only 15 minutes away by launch. This is the exclusive hideaway on which the Duchess of York has chosen to holiday on two trips to Australia. It has two resorts, Bedarra Hideaway and Bedarra Bay ... a pampered, luxurious world of exquisite food, fine French champagne and wines and above all, privacy. There are only 16 villas at each resort.
Better still, it is a cashless society because virtually everything is included in the daily tariff.
I stayed at Bedarra Bay, the newer of the two resorts, but was given an extensive tour of Hideaway. I preferred Bedarra Bay, mainly because it is a little more informal in design than Hideaway. But both are superb. I loved the split-level villas which never intrude on the landscape. My balcony, for instance, was built around an ancient tree. And the clever use of large glass windows meant that you could see the glistening rainforest everywhere you looked. Having a shower was like communing with nature.
I have long had a passion for boulders and Bedarra has some of the best I've ever seen. Large, speckled, primitive. Artists Brett Whitely and Keith Looby would drool.
Bedarra Bay met all my expectations. In fact, it was almost too perfect. I lounged on a secluded bit of beach and swam in Aegean blue water during the day. I drank Laurent Perrier champagne and feasted on delicate canapes as the sun went down and finished the day with a dinner that would satisfy the most dedicated lover of fine food.
But I have to confess that it was Great Keppel Island which left a lingering fondness after I had returned home from my five-day trek to the Great Barrier Reef.
It was my nirvana. Stretches of pure white beaches with sand as fine as silk. Waves lapping gently at your feet. Lorikeets flashing by like vivid Gauguin daubs on the sky. Knarled moreton bay figs providing umbrellas of shade. Skies of such pristine clarity it made your eyes ache. Sand goannas claiming the bushland environment. This is the island that I have always fantasised about.
Great Keppel, a 15-minute flight from Rockhampton, has recently undergone a$14 million facelift and offers, I think, the best value. There is a wide choice of accommodation. In addition to the existing Beachfront and Garden villas, you can stay in the new hillside units. Their architecture is stunning. From a distance these units look like the traditional Queenslander. There is a huge veranda off each unit where you can watch a sunset that takes the breath away. And the bathrooms are super - no more fighting over who has the first shower or him putting the shaving cream everywhere. There are two showers and two vanity units.
Keppel has equal attraction for families or couples. There are 18 beaches if you want privacy or four pool complexes. As with Dunk, your tariff can include accommodation, meals and use of most sporting activities with the exception of horse riding or watersports requiring fuel.
Both resorts provide a range of activities and free supervision of children aged from three to 13 years.
The thing that surprised me most about Keppel was the reasonable prices that were charged for drinks and for items in your room's mini bar. Not much more than you would pay at your local watering hole.
The resort's main restaurant, the Admiral Keppel, is housed in the new Beachside Centre. The food is splendid and you can dine in airconditioned comfort or al fresco. I dined on the balcony one night and was bewitched by the shadows and dancing light cast by the flares that dot the main beach.
For those who like to rage until the wee hours, there are nightclubs and discos, or the Karaoke nights where guests brave enough can perform to their favourite video clip.
But for me, my thoughts, an icy marguerita and a secluded table overlooking the flare-lit beach were enough.
FACT FILE
Australian Airlines is offering special five-night packages to Dunk and Great Keppel Islands which include airfare and accommodation and end on March 28. Great Keppel ex-Sydney is $829 and Dunk ex-Sydney is $999. There is also a meal option which allows you to pre-pay for all your meals. On Great Keppel it is $45 a day for adults and $20 a day for children over three. On Dunk it is$55 and $25.
At Bedarra Bay and Bedarra Hideaway, twin-share accommodation is $484 a day, dropping to $435 a day for a seven-night stay. These prices are current until April 28. The Australian Airlines fare to Dunk Island is $748 ex-Sydney but discount fares are available.
For more information contact Australian Airlines on (02)6933333 or Holiday Reservations on 13 1415 .
© 1991 Sydney Morning Herald
